The purpose of this blog is to report on winter climbing conditions in Snowdonia, to keep you lot who like nothing better than climbing ice, snow, frozen turf etc in ridiculously low temps informed!! As well as it being a record of some of my own winter climbing adventures. Feel free to email me any of your own conditions reports & photos you have & I will post them here. The more info on winter conditions the better! email:
Today Sean Mercer & I met up to climb Slanting Buttress Ridge Route on Lliwedd. It is a 700 foot Diff mountain route with some quality climbing and a real feeling of exposure. We soloed the first 3 pitches or so, then roped up and pitched the rest, alternating leads. The crux moves seem to be at around the halfway mark, when you take a bold step out left, overlooking Slanting Gully then move up a fairly featureless slab. However we managed to go slightly astray from the guidebook route on the second to last pitch, and I ended up leading an approx Severe grade pitch which felt hard. An all round good mountain day.
Top pic: Lliwedd. Slanting Buttress Ridge Route starts between the distinct white quartz slashes on the bottom right of the photo. Bottom pic: Sean on the ridge.
Had a couple of hours free this afternoon, so I headed back to World's End for a bit of soloing. It was another perfect climbing day down there, about 18 deg c, and a light breeze. I soloed Squirm (Diff) & A'cheval (V-diff) which are both on the Open Book Area ,Wither (Diff) which is on the Taerg Wall Area & Nose (V-Diff) on the Lower Tier. I also had a good look at a few climbs I want to have a pop at over the next few weeks, but not soloing!
Top pic: The 3 tiers of World's End Bottom pic: Wither on Taerg Wall Area
Perfect day for climbing today. Davey & I headed down to World's End for some sunny crags with beautiful views. I lead Incompetance (HVD) & End Flake (HVD), and Davey lead Ashgrove (V-Diff). Would have been nice to do more routes, but Davey had to be back home for the school run. Heading back to World's End on thursday, so will get a few more routes knocked off then.
Top pic: Beautiful day at World's End Bottom pic: Davey leading Ashgrove
Tonight I have been out climbing at Maeshafn (nr Mold) on Clwyd Limestone with Davey, Mike & Ethan. Between us we climbed Shattered Crack (HS 4a), Sling (HS 4a), Dandy Lion (HS 4b) & Elephant Crack (S 4a).
PIC: Davey climbing in the dark on the crux move of Elephant Crack.
Today Davey & I decided to ignore the weather forecast and take a drive to Snowdonia to climb on Tryfan Fach (Little Tryfan). As it turns out the forecast was spot on, and it poured with rain all day. However we first climbed Tryfan Fach Arete (Mod/Grade 3 scramble), then we climbed Crack 3 (Diff) again in heavy rain.
Top pic: Climbers on Tryfan Fach Arete, and Davey stood just to the right of Crack 3. Bottom Pic: Davey leading on Crack 3
Today Colin & I were out climbing on Milestone Buttress, Tryfan. We arrived to a near winter scene much to our suprise, and first climbed Rowan Route (Diff) in the hail & rain. As the weather dried up in the afternoon we then climbed Direct Route (V-Diff), and incorporated the second pitch of Superdirect (HVS).
Top pic: Looking up Superdirect & Direct Route Bottom pic: A suprise winter scene!